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So you want a smart lock. Maybe you want to lock your door without leaving the bed, or maybe you prefer key codes instead of keeping track of physical keys. Smart locks are great for these things, but start shopping for one and you'll quickly end up in a vast world with multiple types of locks, some of which might require some drilling on your front door and maybe even permission from your landlord or homeowner's association, depending on the model you choose.
If you're overwhelmed, we're here to open the door to your first smart lock. We're currently testing several models and have a buying guide on the way, but regardless of our recommendations, these are the terms you'll come across as you shop and the questions you should ask yourself before you buy.
Table of ContentsDo You Want Your Old Key?Do You Want Any Smarts?Do You Want (or Have) a Hub?Do You Want Multiple Codes?Do You Want Biometric or Keyless Entry?Do You Have Other Entry Points?What About Battery Life? Hidden Fees?
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Do You Want Your Old Key?
If you don't want to change your key or the front of your door, you should choose a smart lock that describes itself as a retrofit lock. These smart locks only switch out the backing, replacing your deadbolt control. The upside is that your existing keys will work. These locks are some of the easiest to install and make for less of a change if you have family members or housemates less thrilled about the idea of changing the lock situation.
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Nearly every major smart lock or home security company sells a retrofit lock, like the Abode Lock (8/10, WIRED Recommends) and the Yale Approach (7/10, WIRED Recommends), often with smart home features built in. Some may require a smart home hub (more on that below). You can also go with more discreet options like the Level Bolt ($199), which you install inside your lock, keeping the same lock hardware as your door.
If you don’t care about your old key, and if you’re a homeowner who can change a lock freely, the world of smart locks opens up immensely.
Do You Want Any Smarts?
If you want a single code that works on your door without any Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, or an app (and without any remote or automated controls), then opt for a digital lock. These are just locks with a keypad attached to the exterior lock. Simply type in a numeric code to unlock it.
If you want smarts, you'll want a lock with Wi-Fi or Bluetooth capabilities. Some locks, like the Yale and August line, need both a Bluetooth connection to the hub and then a connection from the hub to Wi-Fi to work, while other models like the Ultraloq U-Bolt Pro can connect to Wi-Fi on their own or connect to your phone's Bluetooth when you're in range. Wi-Fi options have more smart capabilities—you can have a voice assistant open your front door; set up automations, like opening the door when you arrive or auto lock at a certain time; or unlock your door when in another country. Make sure you have your home network secured if you opt for a lock with Wi-Fi and Bluetooth capabilities as you naturally open yourself up to security issues.
I prefer Wi-Fi and Bluetooth smart locks—being able to ask my voice assistant if my front door is locked is handy, as is remote access over a Wi-Fi connection to lock my front door after I leave the house. But it’s perfectly reasonable to prefer a digital lock if you don’t want to fuss with internet connectivity.
Do You Want (or Have) a Hub?
Not all smart locks require an external hub. If they do, you'll have to see if the company sells one, or if you need to choose a third-party hub on the right smart home protocol. Yale and August, owned by the same company, require you to buy their Wi-Fi Bridge ($80) to set up any smart locks. Kwikset's locks, on the other hand, let you choose a smart home protocol—Zigbee or Z-Wave—and you can bring your own hub to pair with it. Some locks don't need a hub if you don't want to worry about it. I liked using the Abode Lock since it was hub-free, but plenty of lock brands have a Wi-Fi-only option.
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You might already have a smart home hub if you have certain smart speakers like an Amazon Echo (4th Gen) ($100) or smart displays like the Amazon Echo Show 8 (3rd Gen) ($150). If you're an Apple HomeKit user, you might have a HomePod or Apple TV to act as your home's hub, but HomeKit compatibility is much trickier than more common options like Zigbee and Z-Wave, or choosing Amazon and Google.
Do You Want Multiple Codes?
Entry or access codes, in my opinion, are one of the best parts of smart locks. Not all smart locks come with one, but most have an accessory keypad you can add on and place wherever you want on the exterior of your home. While a digital lock lets you set a single code, a smart lock app will let you create multiple codes and assign them to certain people, and set limits on the code use, so you can give a code to your dog walker or your favorite neighbor and know when they use it to enter your home. It makes it easy to revoke codes without needing your entire household to adapt to a code change.
Some locks, like the Ultraloq U-Bolt Pro ($109) and Schlage Encode Plus ($319), come with a keypad built into the front of the lock, but others require purchasing the add-on keypad. If codes are a key feature for you, prioritize a lock with an attached keypad so you don't have to spend extra cash, or worry about installing two things instead of one.
Do You Want Biometric or Keyless Entry?
The real future is no keys or codes at all! There are a few locks that let you unlock your front door with a press of your fingerprint. Some, like the Ultraloq mentioned above, include the fingerprint reader built into the lock itself, while some have external keypads, like the Abode Lock, with a biometric reader on it. I like using it as a one-touch open if I don't have my keys handy, and it's certainly faster than typing a code.
Most smart locks do have a keyhole, and I'd recommend sticking to ones that offer it. Smart locks run on batteries (more on this below), so it's good to have the battery-free backup of a physical key if you run out of battery power. (Locks will alert you about low battery life in advance, but I'm a procrastinator, so I know how this story will go.) Some locks use your phone's geofencing to alert it to unlock your door, so if your phone dies, you could also lose the convenience you're looking for and need a separate access option.
Do You Have Other Entry Points?
If you're interested in getting a smart lock on a door without a deadbolt, or even a sliding door, good news! There are options for you too. Schlage, for example, makes the Encode Level ($310) designed for doors without an existing deadbolt. Instead, it adds a keyhole in the doorknob along with a keypad. You can also add smart home control for your garage with MyQ's Smart Garage Door Openers (8/10, WIRED Recommends), and you can add a keypad to it.
What About Battery Life? Hidden Fees?
All those smart tricks need a power source: batteries. Most smart locks promise a battery life of at least a few months, if not the better part of a year, but performance depends on how hard the lock is working—more frequent requests and automations will naturally drain the battery a little faster over time. Either way, be prepared to charge or replace batteries in your smart lock. Some have ways to juice up the lock if it's completely dead—the Ultraloq U-Bolt Pro, for example, has a hidden MicroUSB port at the bottom if it needs juice in a pinch.
Some locks also have features hidden behind subscription fees. The Abode comes to mind for this—it offers notifications that your lock was activated, but it doesn't clarify if it was unlocked or locked. You have to sign up for one of Abode's subscription plans for that perk, and it's also the only way to use it with other smart home devices. This isn't super common with smart locks—Abode is also a smart home security company, so its subscription fee works with several other products beyond the locks—but it's worth keeping an eye out.
